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If anyone know where any 4 valve B or C heads are let me know...

Why dont you try to find some navi heads like jinx was saying

There is a set of B heads on STLMustangs for $25.

A good friend of mine has several sets of brand new C heads, 2001 cobra style. I think he is asking $650 a set. Other than Navi, these are probably the best C heads. You have to watch the '03 cobra heads because some had the "tick" issue. If you are interested, I can get you in contact.

Congrats on getting things on the roll man, I'll look forward to seeing everything put together and running. BTW, what's the matter with the old head design?? I figured about 3 1/2 revolutions of spark plug threads were enough for a F/I engine!

The 4V heads have a decent amount of plug threads, unlike the 2V.

The problem with the older heads is the port design. One port is a big square, so the IMRC valves could fit, and the other port is oval. Each cylinder actually has 2 intake ports, instead of the later ones that use a common port for both valves.

What is the power difference between the "b" or the "c" heads...and what intake would I have to use...if I use these heads. Just seems like there is a big price difference between the two.

Stock for stock, C heads will make more power. Ported, Bs are said to flow a little more, though not enough to see a difference.

With B heads, your only option for an intake is the 96-98 cobra, and you will have to pick up IMRC deletes, which run a couple hundred.

C heads have several intake options. Any 99 or 01 cobra, Mach 1, or even Lincoln Aviator. Plus, Sullivan makes aftermarket intakes for that combination.

C heads are really your best option. There is a reason B heads bring scrap metal price at best.

good info ^

Well everyone wants an arm and a leg for c heads so I'm going to go with the b's with some 03 cams...I do have another question tho...Will any timing cover for a dohc 4.6 work on the 03 block? Also does it matter which timing chains and guides I use, are there any parts that won't interchange...I also found a few MarkVIII parts, can I use any of these...I'm going to use some heads off of a 98 cobra..

MKVIII blocks and heads are the same as 96-98 cobra. Cams, crank, etc are different.

Yes, any timing cover will fit. There are some pulley placement differences, and some bolt diameter differences, but you can make any of them work.

As for timing chains, true cobra chains are a polished link chain and can handle higher RPM than the other 4V chains. 2V and 4V primary chains are the same BTW. Guides are a big deal. I honestly don't know what is the best setup on a 4V. My 2V ran a mix of 2V and 4V parts. Tensioners are also different through the years. Get the tensioners without the mechanical backlash stops, or modify them to not retain tension.

Hey guys, I'm going to going to switch to a return fuel system, but I have a few questions...Again.

I plan on sumping the tank and running a external fuel pump, to an inline filter, then up to the rails. Here is where I get confused. Do I run them together then to the fuel pressure regulator then use the original feed for a return? What size line should I use? What do I do with the fuel pressure sensor on the rail...(unplug it?) Does it still have to be used? Also what do I do with the FPDM?

You will replace all of the fuel lines. Run at least a -8 to the lines, and a -6 return out of the regulator.

The FRPS can be left hooked up, and if you do you can datalog fuel pressure. Or you can unplug it and remove the vacuum line that runs to it.

You will wire around the FPDM, and change the return/returnless value in the tune. Doing this will run the pump with key on and you won't have to have any added toggle switches.

So if I keep the fuel pressure sensor, I won't run the risk of blowing it out? As far as the guides go, why don't you want it to maintain tension?

Why is skinnypimp in jail?

If you blow the FRPS and are return style, nothing bad will happen. It will just send the ECM an error and will turn the MIL light on. The ONLY reason I would keep the FRPS is for the ability to datalog fuel pressure through your laptop. Its not that big of a deal though, and I am sure you will be running a fuel pressure gauge.

The tensioners that "ratchet" hold too much tension on the backside of the chain. With the weight of the valvetrain at high RPM, a sudden drop in RPM (such as closing throttle) puts a stress on the "loose" side of the chain and with the tensioner holding pressure on the chain, it can cause breakage. I found this out the hard way and broke one of the studs that the guide swings on. At the time, no one had heard of breaking one of those studs. Within the following year, at least a dozen locals and internet forum members broke the stud as well. It became a common problem until we modified the tensioners.

When the stud broke, it not only required taking the front cover off, I also had to drill out the block, install a heli-coil, find the piece of stud in the oil pan, flush engine, etc.

EDIT: I will mention that I was running a Teksid block though too, which uses a screw-in stud. I know most of the iron blocks use a press in stud. However, I am unsure what the '03 cobra's iron block uses.

skinnypimp was in jail because he was a bad lil boy. but we broke his ass out

Nice...

hehe

Does anybody know where I can get these heads hogged out...I tried to port a throttle body once and it looked like Ray Charles did it!

You really won't need porting to make your power goals. If you want it done locally, send a PM to ReevesRacing. I would trust Dennis with a set of my heads, without question. If you want a top-of-the-line port job, Foxlake would be my choice.

Okay cool I just thought that the b heads may need a little help getting there. That's good to hear.